The klemheist is another in the family of prusik knots - sometimes known as slide-and-grip knots. Like the prusik knot, when weighted, it grips the rope that it is tied around. When the weight is removed, it is free to slide. This enables it to be used in a number of self rescue situations.

The knot must be tied with a rope of diameter less than the main rope, as the effectiveness of the knot is reduced the closer the two ropes are in size. 6mm cord around double 9mm abseiling rope is usually sufficient.

The number of turns can be adjusted to suit the conditions. More turns means greater friction.

Unlike the prusik knot the klemheist is only effective in one direction. This is generally not an issue, although for some safety line work the standard prusik knot may be preferred.

klemheist.jpg (24228 bytes)

The description assumes that you are tying the knot with a prusik loop (a short piece of cord tied into a loop).

Make a bight with the end of the cord, and pass it over the main rope.

122-2288_img.jpg (27695 bytes)
Pass the end with the knot around the main rope once... 122-2289_img.jpg (27833 bytes)
... twice ... 122-2290_img.jpg (27977 bytes)
.. and three times. 122-2291_img.jpg (27777 bytes)
Now, feed the end with the knot through the original loop at the top. 122-2292_img.jpg (27475 bytes)
Pull the knot tight and set it neatly. 122-2293_img.jpg (28017 bytes)